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A rescue dog is a dog that has been placed in a new home after being abused, neglected, or abandoned by its previous owner. Animal rescue organizations exist to rescue, protect, care and re-home dogs from unnecessary euthanasia.

Many dogs need help and are abandoned through no fault of their own. However, be cautious about where these dogs came from — know that someone bred the bitch, whelped the pups, raised the litter and they are now being called “rescue” dogs. Be sure you are not supporting puppy mills or backyard breeders or unethical organizations who produce animals for profit and sell them as “rescue” dogs.

This is a commercial dog breeding facility that breeds dogs for profit. We associate this practice with filthy inhumane conditions which is what a lot of puppy mills are, but you may not realize that many clean and well kept “kennels” are actually “puppy mills.” This is when there are many dogs, many litters, and sometimes many different breeds. There is little to no commitment and limited knowledge from the breeder. Depending on the price charged, these dogs could be very cheap or very expensive. The risk for future heartbreak (behavioral and health conditions, early death) and breaking your bank (vet bills) are high. Please do not support this practice.

This does not mean they literally breed or raise dogs in the backyard, but that they breed with little knowledge or qualifications for their program. If they are breeding for pets, for money, for a fun experience, etc they are practicing “backyard breeding.” Although many BYB’s are well-intentioned, the risk for future behavioral and health conditions, early death and genetic health issues are highly likely because they are breeding without an actual knowledge of pedigree’s health and longevity.

These types of breeders are incredibly dedicated and committed to the breed, to the dogs they produce, and to the owners of their puppies. They use the breed’s written standard as a blueprint for what they produce. They are knowledgeable and willing to share that information with you. They are involved in show/working/breed appropriate venues because this is where we learn more and have our dog’s structure/temperament/abilities qualified for possible future breeding.

Their dogs are fully health tested and of appropriate age and condition to be bed. They carefully interview prospective buyers and a contract is provided for each puppy along with spay/neuter requirements and limited registration for pet homes. These dogs may cost more but because the breeder has invested so much into the quality of the breeding dogs and the quality and longevity in the bloodlines, is so dedicated in raising them well in the first critical 8+ weeks, and they follow up with you for life, then it is very likely to have a healthy happy experience.

The proper and ethical method of cropping is done by a licensed, skilled, and experienced veterinarian. The ideal age for a Doberman is 7-9 weeks of age, before the ear cartilage begins hardening. They are fully sedated (anesthetized) and the edges are stitched up and remain in a “cup” on the pup’s head for ten days. The stitches are removed at about a week and the cup comes off at about two weeks. Not any part of this process is cruel or painful!

After the cup comes off, they will need to be “posted” for several weeks or months depending on the dog and the style of crop for how long it may take. They don’t automatically stand straight up but the “posting” is the necessary after care where the ears are gently taped into position and in time the cartilage hardens upright. The cropped ear still has mobility and you will see them flattening them or perking them to the right or left. The posting process is critical to ensure the crop is successful. Click here to see my videos on posting ears.

The age for docking (and dewclaw removal) is between 3-5 days old and puppies are not picked out until 8 weeks old, so all our puppies will have tails docked and dewclaws removed. 

Many tests have been developed on puppies, particularly for Guide Dogs. The most well-known one is the Volhard:

1. Social Attraction – degree of social attraction to people, confidence or dependence.    
2. Following – willingness to follow a person.  
3. Restraint – degree of dominant or submissive tendency, and ease of handling in difficult situations.
4. Social Dominance – degree of acceptance of social dominance by a person.  
5. Elevation – degree of accepting dominance while in a position of no control, such as at the veterinarian or groomer.  
6. Retrieving – degree of willingness to do something for you. Together with Social Attraction and Following a key indicator for ease or difficulty in training.
7. Touch Sensitivity – degree of sensitivity to touch and a key indicator to the type of training equipment required.
8. Sound Sensitivity – degree of sensitivity to sound, such as loud noises or thunderstorms.  
9. Sight Sensitivity – degree of response to a moving object, such as chasing bicycles, children or squirrels.
10. Stability – degree of startle response to a strange object.